What Does “Organic Sunscreen” Actually Mean?

The word organic is incredibly confusing in many situations, but especially when referring to sunscreen. Technically, an “organic” sunscreen is one that uses carbon-based chemicals, like oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate, to diminish the impact of ultraviolet radiation. That’s what organic chemistry is all about—the study of molecules with carbon backbones and carbon-hydrogen bonds. Benzene (C6H6), a petrochemical and a known carcinogen, is an ORGANIC compound! (Insert horrified gasp here, please.)

The barrier chemicals, like zinc and titanium, are called inorganic because they are not carbon-based. Zinc oxide has the chemical formula ZnO—it is a zinc molecule and an oxygen molecule. In chemistry-speak, it is an inorganic compound.

All this said, when regular people (as opposed to chemists) refer to organic sunscreens or natural sunscreens for the face and body, they are usually talking about a barrier suncream made with zinc and/or titanium that typically contains fewer and healthier ingredients than a mainstream sunscreen you might find in the grocery store.

A less confusing term would be non-toxic sunscreen or natural sunscreen because it implies that we are comparing a more environmentally conscious product with a traditional sun protection product.

Why Choose a Non-Toxic or Natural Sunscreen?

Most widely available commercial sunscreens contain not only sun protection chemicals, but parabens, fragrance, phthalates, and multiple ethoxylated ingredients, and they are often packaged in aerosol cans.

That knowledge alone is a great reason to choose a non-toxic sunscreen over a traditional brand.

Specifically, the sunscreen ingredients oxybenzone and octinoxate are estrogenic and allergenic. Also watch for a “non-active” ingredient called methylisothiazolinone—a preservative commonly found in sunscreens and baby wipes that is increasingly recognized as a strong skin allergen.

Last, but definitely not least, many chemical sunscreens are toxic to marine environments. Oxybenzone and octinoxate have been shown to contribute to coral reef damage, which is why several coastal regions now restrict their use.

It’s hard to relax with a book on the beach when you know your sunscreen might be harming the reef the moment you step into the water.

What Is a Barrier Sunblock?

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the two physical sunblocks used in the natural sunscreen industry. They block the sun’s rays rather than screening them, which is usually what people are looking for when they search for an organic sunblock or natural sunblock.

Zinc blocks both long and short-wave UVA rays and UVB rays, making it a more desirable sun protection ingredient than titanium dioxide, which blocks mostly UVB and short-wave UVA rays.

Rather than filtering UV radiation and diminishing its harmful effects, a physical sunblock sits on top of the skin and reflects sunlight. It’s like the difference between a filter and a mirror—the filter breaks up the sunlight and deactivates it, while the mirror reflects it instead.

Non-Nano vs Nano Sunscreen Particles

Nanoparticles complicate this issue because they may penetrate skin cells to some degree, and more research is needed to fully understand their biological and environmental effects.

Some researchers believe nanoparticles may be taken into skin cells where they could heat up and potentially accelerate UV damage. The evidence is still evolving.

For now, many people choose non-nano zinc oxide sunscreens because they sit on top of the skin and are less likely to be absorbed or enter aquatic ecosystems.

Is Mineral Sunscreen Better Than Chemical Sunscreen?

This is a much-argued point, and there is not enough science available to support extreme positions.

However, several concerns have been raised about certain chemical sunscreen ingredients.

Oxybenzone may act as an endocrine disruptor in the body, mimicking the action of estrogen. Retinyl palmitate can slow visible skin aging but may accelerate certain forms of skin damage when exposed to ultraviolet light. PABA was once widely used but caused allergic reactions in enough people that it has largely fallen out of favor.

In short, there are several compelling arguments for using a non-nano physical sunscreen made with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.

Physical or mineral sunscreens

• are not absorbed by the skin
• are not degraded by sunlight
• are generally more photostable
• often contain fewer unnecessary ingredients

Of the chemical screens, avobenzone protects against UVA rays and appears to have a somewhat lower toxicity profile than some other chemical filters, at least based on current evidence.

How to Reduce the Chalky Look of Mineral Sunscreen

We know natural sunscreens can be a drag. They are often thick, chalky, or zinc-heavy.

Adding a drop or two of Nectar Nourishing Drops to your sunscreen can dramatically improve the texture and spreadability. Organic oils of safflower, argan, prickly pear, and pumpkin seed create a silky blend that helps the sunscreen apply more smoothly.

Adding a drop of oil may decrease the SPF very slightly, but not enough to matter if it helps you apply the sunscreen more evenly.

People with deeper skin tones may have to try a few formulations before finding one that blends without leaving a white cast. Fortunately, mineral sunscreen formulations are improving rapidly.

What Should You Look for in a Natural Sunscreen?

Look for fewer ingredients overall.

Choose non-nano zinc oxide or titanium dioxide until we know more about the effects of nanoparticles.

Avoid products containing parabens and fragrance. Even essential oils can oxidize in sunlight and increase the chance of skin reactions.

An SPF of 30 is usually sufficientand protective clothing, hats, and shade are still important when spending long periods outdoors.

Also remember that a small amount of sunlight—about 10 to 15 minutes of early or late day sun on bare skin a few times a week—can help maintain healthy vitamin D levels.

Most dermatologists will tell you that the best sunscreen is the one you will actually use. I agree that using sunscreen is better than skipping it altogether.

But I think we can do better: let’s look for natural sunscreen ingredients that aren’t harmful for human or environmental health. Why choose any sunscreen when you can easily choose a healthier one??

FAQ: Choosing a Non-Toxic Sunscreen

What is the safest sunscreen ingredient?

Zinc oxide is widely considered the safest and most effective sunscreen ingredient because it protects against both UVA and UVB rays and sits on top of the skin rather than being absorbed.

What does non-nano zinc oxide mean?

Non-nano zinc oxide refers to zinc particles that are large enough that they remain on the surface of the skin rather than penetrating skin cells. Many people prefer non-nano formulations because of potential environmental and absorption concerns.

Are chemical sunscreens harmful?

Not necessarily. Many chemical sunscreens have long safety records, but certain ingredients such as oxybenzone have raised concerns about hormone disruption, allergies, and environmental toxicity, and many chemical sunscreens contain inactive ingredients that come with health questions as well.

Is mineral sunscreen better for sensitive skin?

Yes. Mineral sunscreens made with zinc oxide are often better tolerated by people with sensitive skin, eczema, or perioral dermatitis.

Do mineral sunscreens protect as well as chemical sunscreens?

Yes, when properly formulated and applied in adequate amounts, mineral sunscreens provide excellent broad-spectrum protection.

Our Favorite Non-Toxic Sunscreens

Below are a few of the Osmia team’s favorite natural sunscreens.

Sarah

“Mychelle is my go-to daily sunscreen. It does not seem to exacerbate my perioral dermatitis, which many natural sunscreens do. I also tested it on a dark-skinned friend, and it went in really well with minimal effort, which is not always the case with zinc-based sunscreens. I usually mix it with the Saie Slip Tint (SPF35) for a nice healthy glow—it comes in lots of shades. I really like Babo Botanicals for a natural body sunscreen.”

Mary

“I like the MyChelle Sun Shield SPF 28 Unscented sunscreen to protect my face during skiing, running, biking, and rafting adventures up here in the mountains. It’s a tiny bit white on your face at first but has a nice finish if you give it a minute. And, I’ve had good luck with it not causing breakouts despite long—sometimes grimy—days outdoors. So far, no burns!”

Lisa

Annabelle

“I love Kora Organics Silky Sun Drops because there is no white residue and makes my skin soft and dewy.”

Karla

“I like Kinfield sunscreen because it blends nicely, leaves a nice glow and it doesn’t break me out.”

Doreen

“I love Kypris Pot of Shade sunscreen, because it has such a velvety feeling and makes my skin look radiant. A little goes a long way.”

Hope this helps you choose a sunscreen with fewer health implications for you, your loved ones, and the planet we all share!

The information contained in this post is for educational interest only. This information is not intended to be used for diagnosis or treatment of any physical or mental illness, disease, or skin conditions.