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THD Ascorbate – Why Your Skin Needs THIS Type of Vitamin C

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As both a 35 year esthetician and a skincare product formulator trained in cosmetic chemistry, what I know for sure is there are a lot of false hopes being sold about the latest and greatest “miracle” ingredients – and it’s so easy to fall into the marketing hype.

I’ve seen a lot of ingredients come and go and come back again (hello hyaluronic acid!) but the one that has remained steady is vitamin C. Why? Because it works for evening out pigmentation by interrupting the over-production of melanin which causes hyperpigmentation. Plus, working with faces hands-on, I’ve seen incredible improvements in my clients skin, giving their skin the brightness that they desire.

But…not all vitamin C ingredients and what is now considered “the gold standard” is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorabate, also known as THD Ascorbate.

So, let’s do a deep dive into this ingredient, shall we?

What is THD Ascorbate?

THD, or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, is an inactive form of vitamin C. What makes THD Ascorbate so uniquely different from other forms of vitamin C is that it’s an oil-soluble ester versus being water-soluble. When it’s oil-soluble, it means it won’t start to react and convert into L-ascorbic acid until it hits the oils in your skin, making it the most stable compared to other forms of vitamin C. Plus, since it’s solubilized by oil instead of water, it doesn’t require a low pH like the water-soluble versions do.

Why Choose THD Ascorbate Over Other Types of Vitamin C For My Face?

Have you ever gotten a stinging sensation from vitamin C products with Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate? Yep, that is an indication of their low pH along with potentially the state of your skin’s barrier. While stinging from vitamin C with a low pH is par for the course, (read more about stinging from skincare products), that doesn’t mean your skin appreciates the daily “no pain, no gain” assault that it gets exposed to in the quest for brighter skin. Your skin’s pH resides around 5.0 and many of the water-soluble acids can be a pH of 4.0 or even lower so that’s where the “ouch factor” comes from.

Just like exercise, if you want to achieve results for your body and overall health and longevity, you DO need to create some discomfort. But for the skin, I like to leave those for retinol, prescription retinoids, at-home peels, my 7-day skin challenge and professional treatments like micro needling, dermaplaning, lasers (like the Moxi laser I had done on my own skin) and chemical peels.

If your goal is to create a smoother, even-toned texture with less visible pores, there will be side effects that can compromise the skin barrier and cause irritation, but putting your skin in a state of increased sensitivity every single morning with the use of a low pH vitamin C serum? Nope. I am absolutely not a fan of that.

(If you feel like your barrier is damaged, here’s how to fix it.)

How Effective is THD Ascorbate for Reducing Brown Spots and Hyperpigmentation?

I was introduced to Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate back in 2004 while looking for better solutions for my clients struggling with hyperpigmentation from sun, hormones, and breakouts. Initially, I sold a 2% Hydroquinone product to target pigmentation which is still known to be very effective, but during a cosmetic chemistry class at UCLA, I learned about THD’s promising effects on melanin production. Aside from it not being irritating, what stood out was its stability—it was effective down to the last drop, ensuring you can get the most out of their investment.

This sparked my journey with THD, and within two years, I developed a vitamin C serum using this ingredient. The results during testing were incredible, and when I launched it and recommended it to clients, over the course of weeks and months their sun spots, brown spots and marks from breakouts improved so much faster. I phased out the hydroquinone serum in favor of using THD Ascorbate, which proved to me it was far more effective for skin brightening.

What Percentage of THD Ascorbate Is Effective?

It’s less about looking on the ingredient list (known as the INCI list) and more about the type of product that uses it. Because THD Ascorbate requires time to penetrate the skin, it’s best used in leave-on products. I don’t recommend it in products that rinse off the skin because there simply is no time for the THD to get to work. Also, THD requires much lower use levels than ascorbic acid, thanks to its supreme ability to penetrate into the skin. Oftentimes consumers like to see higher percentages of ingredients, but more is not always more! Skin doesn’t need as much THD as ascorbic acid to reap its benefits. For example, there is a study showing the collagen-boosting effects of THD at just 0.1%. For skin brightening, there are benefits seen as low as 0.5%.

Here’s how to read an ingredient label.

Honestly, it’s less about the INCI list and more about the type of product that uses it. Because THD Ascorbate requires time to penetrate the skin, it’s best used in leave-on products. I don’t recommend it in products that rinse off the skin because there simply is no time for the THD to get to work. Also, THD requires much lower use levels than ascorbic acid, thanks to its supreme ability to penetrate into the skin. I understand how consumers like to see higher percentages of ingredients, but let me tell you, more is not always more. (Much to what social media tries to tell you!) Skin doesn’t need as much THD as ascorbic acid to reap its benefits. For example, there is a study showing the collagen-boosting effects of THD at just 0.1%. For skin brightening, there are benefits seen as low as 0.5%.

Is There Scientific Research Proving How THD Can Help Improve Discoloration?

Behind the science: The primary manufacturer of THD has conducted hundreds of studies on the benefits of THD, which is how it was able to achieve quasi-drug status in Japan and Korea at 3% and 2%, respectively. Unfortunately, those studies are not publicly available, but there are peer-reviewed studies on the benefits of THD in skin, both alone and in combination with other skin-lightening ingredients.

How Often Should I Be Using A Vitamin C Serum?

The benefits of using a vitamin C serum is when it’s used daily as part of your morning routine. Not only does it help suppress melanin production but the use of all types of vitamin C helps to protect skin cells from environmental damage. It scavenges free radicals, which are unstable molecules that lead to skin damage and accelerate skin aging. Free radicals are constantly coming at us from so many different sources, including UV light from the sun, ozone, smoke, and pollution (to name a few). All of these are also responsible for a natural depletion of vitamin C in our skin over time, which is why supplementing with an oral antioxidant product is so important.

Bonus: Vitamin C helps prevent collagen breakdown and promotes healthier collagen production. First, it helps protect the collagen you already have by inhibiting a group of enzymes that break down collagen. Second, it aids in healthier collagen production since it’s a cofactor for two enzymes needed to build and cross-link collagen.

When In My Routine Should I Be Using A Vitamin C Serum?

Always in the morning. Here’s how I love to use it: after I’ve cleansed and toned my skin, I’ll use two pumps of Vitamin C + E Treatment and gently press it into my skin with my fingertips, really letting it set into the skin for about a minute. This gives the powerhouse ingredients a moment to do their thing before I move on to my next step.

After that, I finish off with my favorite non pore-clogging Weightless Protection SPF 30, locking everything in and protecting my skin from those pesky free radicals. It’s a simple but super effective combo that leaves my skin feeling fresh, nourished, and ready to take on the day!

Bottom line about THD Ascorbate: It’s an ingredient that I value a lot because of research and unlike trendy ingredients, this has staying power because it’s one of those ingredients where you can actually see the difference which is not the case with a lot of ingredients, even though they still are beneficial.

Since THD is the most stable form of vitamin C and now considered to be “the gold standard of vitamin C”, it doesn’t need that low pH to be effective, which is great news for our skin barrier. I hope you’ll consider trying Vitamin C + E Treatment as I’ve formulated it with a pH of 5.3, making it much gentler on the skin than most.

From my hands to your face, your skin barrier will thank you!

Did you know that these five ingredients can help restore your skin barrier?

Understanding Acne and How I Treat It at Incandescent Skin – Medical Grade Skincare and Sugaring Hair Removal

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At Incandescent Skin, I believe knowledge is power, especially when it comes to your skin. Acne isn’t just a teenage issue or a surface-level concern; it’s a complex condition that involves the skin’s microbiome, hormones, oil production, and inflammation. By understanding how acne functions, we can design treatment plans that restore balance, clarity, and confidence.

What Exactly Is Acne

Acne is a chronic condition that occurs when hair follicles, also called pores, become clogged with oil, dead skin cells, and sometimes bacteria known as Cutibacterium acnes. When this mixture becomes trapped beneath the surface, it triggers inflammation that results in whiteheads, blackheads, papules, pustules, or deeper cystic lesions.

Skin Revision Treatments

Acne typically develops in areas with a high concentration of sebaceous glands such as the face, chest, and back. It can be influenced by hormones, genetics, lifestyle, stress, products, and diet. Hormonal fluctuations can increase oil production, genetics can determine your skin’s natural behavior, and external factors like stress or pore-clogging ingredients can worsen congestion. Understanding these influences helps determine how to treat acne effectively.

How Acne Functions Beneath the Surface

Underneath the skin, a lot is happening before a blemish even appears. Each pore houses a sebaceous gland that produces oil to keep skin healthy. When cell turnover slows down, dead cells stick together and trap oil, forming a micro-comedone—the earliest stage of acne. As oxygen decreases inside the pore, acne bacteria multiply and inflammation develops, resulting in redness, swelling, and tenderness. Our job is to interrupt that cycle, calm inflammation, clear congestion, and normalize your skin’s function long-term.

Our Approach: Face Reality and DMK Enzyme Therapy

At Incandescent Skin, we take a clinical-meets-holistic approach that supports your skin’s natural healing intelligence while targeting the deeper imbalances that cause acne.

Face Reality Acne Program

Face Reality is a gold-standard acne management system based on science and skin biology. I use a structured protocol that includes a comprehensive skin analysis to identify your acne type, triggers, and sensitivities, a customized home-care regimen using Face Reality’s professional-grade products free of pore-clogging ingredients, and bi-weekly acne treatments to keep pores clear, accelerate healing, and monitor your skin’s progress.

The goal is clear, healthy skin without antibiotics or harsh prescriptions. Face Reality works because it focuses on consistency, education, and adaptation as your skin changes.

DMK Enzyme Therapy

To take results to a higher level, we incorporate DMK Enzyme Therapy, a globally recognized skin revision treatment that rebuilds the skin’s health from within. DMK works by oxygenating the skin to increase circulation and flush out toxins, dissolving dead cells and clearing blocked pores, restoring the acid mantle and improving the skin’s barrier function, and stimulating collagen and lymphatic flow to reduce redness, texture, and scarring.

DMK Enzyme Therapy pairs beautifully with the Face Reality program because it doesn’t just treat symptoms—it strengthens your skin so it can resist future breakouts.

The Incandescent Skin Difference

Every acne journey is unique. Your treatment plan at Incandescent Skin is customized from the inside out. We combine education, accountability, and progressive treatments to help you finally understand your skin and restore confidence in your reflection.

Clients often begin to see noticeable results within six to eight weeks, with significant transformation over several months. The key is commitment, consistency, and professional guidance.

Ready to Begin Your Clear-Skin Journey

Let’s create a plan designed just for you. Book an Acne Consultation today to receive a detailed skin analysis, lifestyle review, and customized treatment plan using Face Reality and DMK.

Incandescent Skin
1200 N. El Dorado Place, Suite D410
Tucson, AZ 85715
(520) 812-6802
www.vagaro.com/IS

Makeup and Beauty Blog Monday Poll, Vol. 898

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So…what is the Monday Poll?

Excellent question! It isn’t, contrary to its name, an actual poll, like with little clicky buttons. It’s just a list of more or less random questions I’ve been posting on this blog every Monday morning for the past quadrillion years (since 2007).

1. Are you dressing up for Halloween this year?

All signs point to no at this point (haven’t really thought about it), but sometimes I manage to rally at the last minute to put something together, so you never know. I might default to my go-to, which is a makeup artist, if I’m feeling spunky!

2. A makeup look that you come back to over and over again?

Red matte lips and skinny black cat eyeliner, for sure. Never gets old!

3. When was a period in your life when you spent a lot of time on your hair?

The late ‘90s and early 2000s. Stick straight hair was the thing, so I was fighting my natural texture every day. Now that I think about it, I can’t believe I had that much patience to wrangle my hair into place!

4. Pumpkin carving: lots of fun or unnecessarily messy?

How about a little bit of both? Mostly lots of fun, though. I don’t mind the mess!

5. Best/worst Halloween candy?

Best are Albanese Gummy Bears (so good). Worst? Swedish Fish.

Your friendly neighborhood beauty addict,

Karen

P.S. Here are the questions to copy/paste with your answers in a comment. Talk to ya soon.

1. Are you dressing up for Halloween this year?
2. A makeup look that you come back to over and over again?
3. When was a period in your life when you spent a lot of time on your hair?
4. Pumpkin carving: lots of fun or unnecessarily messy?
5. Best/worst Halloween candy?

Clearer Skin Starts with a Hybrid Concealer – Glo Skin Beauty

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At Glo, we’re all about makeup-meets-skincare—and vice-versa. Think products that work harder and smarter to nourish your skin while delivering high-performance results and coverage. No matter your skin texture, age, or skin goals, we believe beauty should feel as good as it looks.

Step forward our new dual-action Spot Treat Concealer. “This concealer is a total game-changer,” explains Janeena Rumsey, Global Education Ambassador + Artistry Lead. “Designed to heal and conceal, it delivers high-performance, longwearing coverage with powerful skin-clearing benefits. It’s perfect for spot treating breakouts or blemishes, offering seamless coverage and a smooth finish.”


Skincare-Powered Concealing

This skincare-powered concealer is powered by 1% encapsulated salicylic acid to penetrate deep into pores to reduce inflammation, target acne-causing bacteria, and prevent future breakouts. It also features an antioxidant and antimicrobial complex to reduce excess sebum, heal breakouts, and reduce inflammation.

“The formula itself is incredibly lightweight—you’ll forget you’re even wearing it, plus it’s oil-free,” shares Janeena. “This creamy concealer blends like a dream, without appearing cakey, heavy or masking skin. You’re just left with a perfected, even and smooth complexion.”

The ethically-sourced mineral pigments provide natural, breathable coverage that stays in place all day, erasing signs of imperfections, for a smooth, even complexion.


Spot Treat Concealer

Salicylic acid-powered concealer to treat, cover + clear breakouts

Complexion Concealing Tips

“There are so many ways to apply this formula,” Janeena adds. “Depending on the concealing need, it can be applied prior to foundation or on top to further perfect and complete your base. But if layering for fuller coverage is something you’re looking for, try this step by step.”

Step 1. For precise application and maximum coverage payoff, apply onto problem areas directly from the stick. For lightweight coverage, swatch onto clean fingertips or apply using a detail brush like Full Coverage Camouflage Brush, Eye Base Brush, Crease Shader Brush (for smaller areas) or for larger areas, the Dual Foundation/Camouflage Brush.

Step 2. Avoid blending right away. Allow it to dry down and set a bit (feels almost dry to the touch) to build coverage.

Step 3. Use clean fingertips or brush to blend around concealed blemish(s). Avoid blending areas in need of the most coverage.

Step 4. For extra smoothing, mattifying, and to set into place on extra oily skin, try pressing Perfecting Powder on top of concealer prior to foundation application. This will help product grip and create a smoothing barrier and prevent cream-based products from sliding and moving under complexion products.

Step 5. Gently apply your chosen foundation on top, being sure to use a pat and press motion when working around concealed areas.

Step 6 (optional). If blemishes or unwanted hues are peeking through, apply a very light second layer to areas in need of more coverage. Then use clean fingertips or a detailed blending brush to fuse into the foundation.

Step 7. Set complexion with your chosen setting powder—we love Luminous Setting Powder for adding radiance or Perfecting Powder for mattifying.

Step 8. Apply color—blush and/or bronzer, plus highlighter, being mindful of concealed areas.

Concealer stick labeled 'glo SKIN BEAUTY' resting on beige makeup swatch

Concealer As Part of Your Skin-Clearing Routine

Perfect for adult acne, clogged pores, inflammation, post-acne marks, or other textural concerns, add it to your daily clarifying and balancing skincare routine. Try this easy skin-clearing regimen.

Cleanse skin with Purifying Gel Cleanser, then follow with Beta-Clarity Pro 5 Liquid Exfoliant.

Then, in the AM, apply BHA Clarifying Gel Moisturizer to balance + strengthen skin’s microbiome, refine, and mattify skin.

Gently swipe Spot Treat Concealer onto blemishes or areas where breakouts are present. Use a clean fingertip or brush to tap and blend edges for a seamless finish.

Dispense 1–2 pumps of Oil-Free Tinted Primer onto clean fingertips and apply evenly to the skin for a fresh, balanced complexion with SPF 30 protection. Then follow with your favorite foundation and color products.

In the PM, apply Microbiome Restoring PM Moisturizer after cleansing + toning to reset and support the skin’s recovery process.

Whether you’re dealing with a single spot or several breakouts, Spot Treat Concealer is your go-to for treating skin and looking your best. it’s the multitasking must-have your routine has been waiting for.

Woman's face, before and after Spot Treat Concealer — BEFORE: AFTER:

Mother’s Day Gift Guide | Luxy Hair

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Shopping for the perfect Mother’s Day gift for Mom or that special motherly figure in your life can be hard. With so many options to choose from and what sometimes feels like a lot of pressure, it can be difficult to choose the perfect gift. Our team has carefully put together a thoughtful list of gift ideas so that you can give Mom a gift that says “thank you” this Mother’s Day. Whichever gift you choose, it’s important to remember the most special gifts are about the thought behind them and the love you share. No matter what type of Mother you have; fashionista, sporty, techy we have the perfect options to make mom smile this Holiday!

Thinning Hair Extensions

Give the gift of extra fullness and volume without the fuss! ​​From grocery store runs to school drop-offs, they are designed to seamlessly blend into your routine, so your mom can live each day to the fullest without letting hair loss weigh her down. These easy-comfort clip-in extensions are the perfect set for beginners and anyone who just needs a little extra volume. They come in 12” and 16” and are virtually undetectable! Because they have been designed for thin, fine hair types the 150 g – 225 g sets make these extensions our most comfortable!

SHOP THINNING HAIR FILL-INS

Essential Pearl Earrings by Mejuri

Spoil Mom this Mother’s Day with these dainty freshwater pearl earrings that won’t break the bank! Made in 14k solid gold, and cultured freshwater pearls, these drop earrings are the perfect gift for any coastal chic mom!

Mejuri Pearl Earrings

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Fitbit Luxe

If you’re looking for a meaningful gift that can help your Mom stay healthy and active look no further than the fashionable and affordable Fitbit Luxe. With all the health tracking essentials this stylish watch also doubles as jewelry for your mom to wear for all her plans! The Fitbit Luxe includes a slim band and watch face that tracks everything from daily steps, stress management, sleep patterns and so much more. It’s truly the perfect health & wellness gift!

Fitbit Luxe

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Out Of Office Tote Bag

Get your mom the perfect travel bag for all her upcoming trips to or away from the office (or kids!). Our Out of Office tote bag is the perfect gift for the mom on the go! Made from 100% polyester, our chic cream-colored tote bag is perfect and includes 1 inside pocket and two puffer straps for extra hand comfort. For extra brownie points include a plane ticket inside!

Luxy Hair Tote Bag

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Velcro Hair Rollers

Moms of the 80s & 90s are pros at this style, but they likely do not have a new set of Velcro Rollers to take their hair from flat to full! Not only may this be a throwback for some moms on your list but it’s sure to take them to the future of hairstyling with our top-selling Velcro Roller set! Give the Mom in your life the perfect vegan Saffiano bag, with 18 Velcro Rollers, and 9 Creaseless Hair Clips! One of our favorite Luxy Hair products, these Velcro Rollers are the perfect gift for the Fashionista mom in your life.

Velcro Hair Rollers

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NUFACE MINI+ Starter Kit

Going all out this Mother’s Day? The NUFACE Mini starter kit might be the perfect gift for your Mom. This Mini travel size starter kit includes a facial toning device to instantly rejuvenate your skin using gentle microcurrents to tone and contour from the epidermis right down to the muscle. Your mom will be glowing inside out for the perfect glazed skin to keep her feeling confident and youthful.

NuFace Starter Kit

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Seamless Hair Clip-In Extensions

The perfect gift for a mom who’s looking for length and volume without commitment! These clip-in hair extensions blend beautifully with thinner to medium hair types and come in 30+ shades. Whether your mom is looking to add a different look to her hair like Balayage without the commitment or just get extra length and volume these extensions are the perfect solution. Not sure what her perfect match is? Try our virtual color match here!

Seamless Extensions

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What I Love about Mom Fill-In Book

If gifts aren’t your Mom’s thing, but cards and sentiments are, try giving the ultimate “thank you” with this Fill-in book by Knock Knock. Fill in each page with reasons why you love your mom with guided questions, sentences, and more. A true keepsake for any motherly figure in your life! We recommend pairing this book with your Mom’s favorite flowers.

knock Knock Book

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Sage Diffuser Aroma Om® Deluxe

For the mindful Mom in your life, a Sage diffuser is the perfect gift to bring peace and serenity to a busy mom’s schedule! This diffuser includes the largest and longest running time with heat-free and whisper-quiet technology. It also is the perfect gift for the interior designer lover in your life as it’s super chic. Pair your favorite diffuser blend with this for the perfect relaxing Mother’s Day gift.

Sage Diffuser

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EBERJEY Jersey Knit Pajamas

Breakfast in bed never looked so good! If comfort is your mom’s thing these jersey-knit Pajamas by Eberjey are the perfect match for Mother’s Day Gift. Cozy and chic, these boyfriend-style soft pajamas come in a range of colors, perfect to customize to your mom’s favorite!

Eberjey Income

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6 Things to Know About Stem Cell Therapy For Sports Injuries – The Wardrobe Stylist

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Sports injuries can sideline you from your favourite activities. Unlike stem cell therapy, traditional treatments can keep you out of the game for long periods during rest, recovery from surgery, or rehabilitation after procedures. Ask me, I have been in this situation for the last 2.5 years. In winter, an average of 3.8 million people are injured playing winter sports in the U.S alone.

Source

Stem Cell Therapy

There is a large amount of published research on stem cells for sports injuries. It has shown the great success of stem cell therapy for sports injury, musculoskeletal and neurological disorders, and autoimmune heart and lung disease. Dr. Johnson is a board-certified physician and founder of award-winning practice Innovations Medical. He helps us understand how stem cell therapy provides injured patients an alternative to conventional medicine with proven results.
“Stem cell therapy is a surgical procedure that sees patients putting their own cells back into their body — much like a skin graft or a coronary artery bypass,” says Dr. Bill Johnson.

1. How Does Stem Cell Therapy Help?

Most studies have shown good to excellent pain reduction with stem cells. Stem cells, especially those from fat, are highly anti-inflammatory and very helpful with pain and swelling. Stem cell therapy helps to reduce joint inflammation quickly, and many patients see improvements in 1 to 2 days. Anti-inflammatory results of the procedure last 2 to 3 months, and many patients see a gradual improvement in their condition over time.

Stem cells are increasingly used to enhance healing with and without surgical intervention, although the best way to use the cells is still being tested.

Stem cell in petri dish under microscope
Source

2. What Types of Injuries Can it Heal?

Studies are available showing help with the following injuries:

    • Shoulder and rotator cuff injuries
    • Knee ligament and cartilage injuries
    • Elbow injuries
    • Achilles tendon injuries
    • Foot and ankle injuries
    • Back injuries

3. What About Prior Injuries?

Stem cells can help with recovery from sports injury, even though it occurred months or years ago. Both pain and mobility can be improved by stem cells used in the areas of old injuries.

4. Who is The Ideal Candidate?

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Stromal vascular fraction (SVF) stem cell therapy is minimally invasive, which gives patients an alternative to painful surgery and a lengthy recovery. Patients with sports injuries ideal for this type of treatment are:

  • Patients who have not responded to current medical treatments or who are no longer responding to current medical treatment
  • Those who cannot tolerate recommended treatment for their condition
  • People who want to avoid the recommended treatment for their condition, such as surgery
  • Patients for which nothing has been effective

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Woman sitting on grass due to knee pain
Source

5. How Much Does it Cost?

The cost of the initial treatment ranges from $5,000 to $10,000. The cost range depends on the complexity of delivering the cells back to you. For example, spine conditions require multiple physicians to deliver the cells back to your body, which requires an increase in cost as multiple doctors are involved in the procedure. For many people, the initial treatment is all that is needed; however, subsequent treatments may be required for some conditions, and these are done at a reduced fee.

6. What Are Other Treatments Available?

Bone fractures are treated by placing the broken edges together and immobilizing them for several weeks. Soft tissue injuries and joint injuries are treated with rest, physical therapy/rehab, injections (steroids and others like Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP)), and sometimes surgical repair.

Treating concussions with physical and mental rest is becoming increasingly emphasized. Overuse injuries typically require long-term rest from the offending activity, rehab, and sometimes injections.

Many of these therapies are highly effective for fractures and minor soft tissue injuries like sprains. Any use of stem cells in these areas would have the goal of speeding recovery since complete recovery is the typical outcome of conventional therapy.

Other treatments like muscle or ligament tears, overuse injuries, and repeated concussions often respond with less than complete recovery. These are areas where stem cells may offer complete recovery as well as faster recovery.
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Person in kinesio tape around knee
Source

The Gist of it

Stem cell therapy is changing lives. This revolutionary therapy provides much-needed relief for patients suffering from sports injuries and more. Research has shown that it has been successful in healing patients in less time than other types of treatments. Would you consider stem cell therapy for sports injuries?

P.S. If you enjoyed this post, sign up to my newsletter to get the latest advice, tips, and giveaways right into your inbox!

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Understanding Sun Protection Labels – KindofStephen

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SPF, PA, PPD, UVA, Stars…What does it all mean?

Sun Protection Factor (SPF)

The SPF number is a ratio of how much UV exposure your skin can be exposed to with the sunscreen on compared to without. The SPF test uses erythema or sunburn as a marker, which is mostly caused by UVB.

Hypothetically, an SPF 30 would mean you can be exposed to 30 times more sunburn causing UV compared to without the sunscreen on.

SPF 30 does not necessarily mean that you can stay out 30 times longer in the sun before sunburn. That is because the amount of UV coming from the sun is not always the same.

Broad Spectrum

Broad spectrum is a statement on how a sunscreen absorbs different wavelengths of UV light.

While the label requirements differ between regions, they all must meet a minimum critical wavelength of 370 nanometers.

That means when measured, at least 90% of the UV light the sunscreen absorbs is below the wavelength of 370 nanometers.

Broad spectrum is a signal that the sunscreen offers better UVA protection than a comparable sunscreen without the label.

UVA Circle

The UVA Circle symbol means that the sunscreen’s UVA protection is at least a third of the SPF.

If a sunscreen with the UVA Circle symbol has an SPF 30, you can expect a UVA 10 or higher.

The UVA Circle symbol does not tell you the exact UVA protection, just the minimum you might expect.

UVA Protection Factor

The UVA number (sometimes UVAPF number) is a description of how protective a sunscreen is against UVA radiation.

The UVA number is a ratio, like SPF. A UVA 30 means hypothetically you can be exposed to about 30 times more UVA with proper application of the sunscreen than without.

The UVA number can be determined in vitro (non-human testing) by measuring and comparing the amount of UVA light that passes through the sunscreen on textured plastic.

The UVA number can also be determined in vivo (human testing) with persistent pigment darkening or PPD.

Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD)

The PPD number is a ratio of how much UV the skin can be exposed to before developing a long-lasting tan with the sunscreen on compared to without. Long lasting tans are mostly caused by UVA.

PPD is tested for on people with Fitzpatrick Skin Types 2 to 4 and mostly measures the effects of UVA.

Hypothetically, a PPD 10 would mean you could be exposed to 10 times the UVA with the sunscreen on, compared to without.

PPD results are sometimes labelled as UVA or UVAP. To find out, contact a brand’s customer service and ask which method they used to determine their UVA or UVAPF number.

PA

The PA system ranges from + to ++++ and is based on values from PPD. It was developed in Japan and used in countries like South Korea.

PA+ = PPD 2 to 4
PA++ = PPD 4 to 8
PA+++ = PPD 8 to 16
PA++++ = PPD 16 or greater

The PA system runs into issues when comparing sunscreens with higher PPD numbers. For example, a PPD 20 and PPD 25 sunscreen would both be labelled as PA++++.

Boots Star Rating

The Boots Star Rating is a UVA rating system used by the British retailer Boots.

It describes the ratio of the UVA to UVB absorption of a sunscreen and is tested in vitro (not on people.

The test compares the ratio before and after UV exposure, which accounts for the sunscreen’s photostability.

PRE 0.6 to 0.79 PRE 0.8 to 0.89 PRE 0.9 and over
POST 0.57 to 0.75 * * * * * * * * *
POST 0.76 to 0.85 * * * * * * * * * * *
POST 0.86 and over * * * * * * * * * * * *

Getting what’s on the label

Most people don’t apply enough sunscreen when unprompted. To get close to the protection label on the sunscreen, the recommended amount is 2 milligrams per square centimeter of skin (2 mg / cm2).

There’s many different techniques to increase the amount of sunscreen you use. The one I prefer and do most often is to apply it twice, with an aim to reapply at least once during an outdoor day.

We don’t need to stress out too much about the exact amount we’re applying…more is generally better and reapplication can make up for a first application.

The best sunscreen is the one you enjoy using consistently, often, and liberally.

Brown Lashes Are the Lash of 2025

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If you’ve been searching for a way to elevate your lash sets with a softer, more natural look—brown lashes are your new best friend. At EBL, we’re excited to announce the expansion of our brown lash collection! We already offer our signature Cinnamon Light Brown Lashesand now we’re adding a brand-new shade: Cocoa Dark Brown Lashes. Both will be available in Classic and Volume traysgiving you endless creative freedom.

Why Brown Lashes?

Brown lashes are quickly becoming the must-have trend of 2025and it’s easy to see why. They’re flattering, versatile, and deliver a softer look that black lashes sometimes can’t achieve. Here’s why lash artists everywhere are making the switch:

  • Perfect for clients with lighter features: Brown lashes beautifully complement clients with light hair, blue or green eyes, and fair skin tones. They look seamless and natural instead of overly bold.

  • A match for redheads: Redheaded clients often struggle with black lashes feeling “too harsh.” Brown tones, especially Cinnamon, blend effortlessly and enhance their natural coloring.

  • Ideal for mature clients: For those who prefer a softer, more refined look, brown lashes provide definition without the intensity of black. They’re age-friendly and elegant.

  • Customizable dimension: With two shades—Cinnamon (light brown) and Cocoa (dark brown)—you can mix and layer for depth, dimension, and artistry that feels both natural and striking.

Cinnamon vs. Cocoa: What’s the Difference?

  • Cinnamon (Light Brown) – This was our original. Soft, warm, and subtle. Best for redheads, blondes, or clients with minimal brows and lighter features.

Model wearing EBL Cinnamon Brown Lash Extensions – light brown lashes with a natural finish, CC curl

  • Cocoa (Dark Brown) – Rich, deep, and versatile. Perfect for clients who want a softer look than black but still want noticeable definition.

Model wearing EBL Cocoa Brown Lash Extensions – dark brown lashes with soft definition and depth, CC curl

By offering both shades in Classic and Volume traysyou can customize sets for every client—from soft and natural to full and dramatic—without losing that effortless, natural finish.

Styling Tips for Brown Lashes

  • Try all-brown sets for clients who want a natural, “your lashes but better” look.

  • Mix Cocoa with black for added dimension and a blended finish.

  • Add a touch of Cinnamon spikes into a set for texture and brightness.

  • Pair brown lashes with clear adhesive for the most seamless result.

Why Lash Artists Love Them

Brown lashes aren’t just a trend—they’re a new staple in every lash artist’s toolkit. They open up your ability to cater to different clients, expand your artistry, and set your work apart. Clients notice when you give them options, and offering brown lashes is one of the easiest ways to elevate their lash experience.

👉 Ready to stock up? Shop our Cocoa Dark Brown Lashes and Cinnamon Light Brown Lashes today available in both Classic and Volume trays.

Alexa Chung at Burberry SS26: Makeup Get The Look

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Image Credit @ Wendy Rowe with Alexa Chung

For Alexa Chung visit to the Burberry Spring/Summer ‘26 show at London Fashion Week, she wanted to reference an icon: Lauren Hutton. There’s something about Hutton’s look that embodies effortless elegance, think chic NY apartment, morning-after hair, and that ‘I woke up like this’ glamour that’s as relevant now as it was in the seventies. But for Burberry, I wanted to give that energy a contemporary nod: a touch moodier, slightly undone, but still polished and modern.

The Inspiration: Effortless Elegance, The Lauren Hutton Way

It’s always fun reinterpreting vintage muses for a new era. Lauren Hutton’s open, natural, and lightly undone beauty feels as cool on today’s runways as it did in 70s Vogue. But for a show like Burberry, usually crisp, directional, and a bit rebellious, I felt her makeup should have a sharper edge. The answer? Match softness and depth: a story told in grey and brown, two shades that if handled poorly could feel muddy, but done right, ultra-modern.

THIS POST CONTAINS AFFILIATE LINKS

Image Credit @ Wendy Rowe with Alexa Chung

Eyes: Grey, Graphite, and Sculpted Smoke

People sometimes shy away from grey and brown together, assuming they’ll clash or dull each other down. But with makeup, nuance is everything. For Alexa’s eyes, I started by tightlining with a steel-grey pencil, a small detail that instantly makes the lash line more defined and gives eyes a strong but not overwhelming frame. Next, I built outwards using a veil of slate shadow, softly diffused to keep the mood light, before deepening and warming the look with a chocolate brown shade on the outer corners.

TOP TIP: I took the lower lash line a few shades deeper, blending the colour slightly downwards. The result? A sculpted, slightly graphic smoulder that’s more modern-it-girl than 60s icon.

Image Credit @ Wendy Rowe with Alexa Chung

Statement Lips: Why Brown Has a Moment

For the lips, I wanted to break away from the obvious red or nude, fashion week is always about stretching those boundaries. A dark taupe pencil gave Alexa’s lips a crisp, defined edge, which I feathered into a rich tobacco brown through the centre. This instantly felt more runway than a daytime nude, and brought a grounded sophistication to the whole face.

TOP TIP: The key to avoiding flatness with browns on the lip? Texture. I finished with a dab of moisture in the centre of the lips (any hydrating balm or light gloss will do). It’s details like this that stop a strong brown lip from reading too retro or too heavy.

Skin: Balancing Edginess With Radiance

A grey and brown palette can easily tip into looking stark unless the complexion stays bright and fresh. I kept Alexa’s skin glowy and lively with a soft peachy blush brushed over the high points, think about the points you naturally flush after a brisk walk and a light veil of highlighter on the tops of the cheekbones, cupid’s bow, and down the nose.

The Kit List

● Eyes: Dior mono shadow in a deeper brown, applied outer corner + underneath; Slate-grey eyeliner to tightline; Grey eyeshadow washed across lid.
● Master Mattes Eyeshadow Palette: The Neutrals
● Cheeks: Merit blush for a soft, fresh flush.
● Lips: Rare Beauty for moisture and depth, paired with Anastasia Beverly Hills taupe lip liner.
● Skin: Dior Maximiser Glow Forever, swept across face for a natural radiance.
● Brows: Anastasia Brow Pencil to frame Alexa’s natural shape.

The finished look summed up what I love most about beauty for fashion week: referencing the past, but rewriting it for right now. Alexa wore it with that cool, undone Burberry mood.

MORE GET THE LOOKS: Sienna Miller | Cara Delevingne | Suki Waterhouse

© Wendy Rowe. All Rights Reserved.

The Nailasaurus | UK Nail Art Blog

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It’s the most wonderful time of the year… if you like bad weather, busy roads and being forced to listen to Christmas music in every public space! I know I can be a bit of a scrooge, but I do love Christmas time really. Admittedly, highlights of the season for me are all the delicious cooked dinners, socially acceptable day drinking and of course… the Christmas nail art!

I’ve put together three looks that are perfect for any Christmas occasion. All three looks only use two shades of nail polish and basic nail art tools so they’re quick and easy to achieve on any budget.

Now you know I like to keep it classy so there’s nothing too flashy – although I have been spending a lot of time browsing through the crazy glitter collection at Ellisons so you will see a fair bit of the sparkly stuff. But that’s acceptable right? Glitter can totally still be classy when you do it right!

Glitter Candy Canes

Christmas Nail Art Candy Canes

All you need is…

A white creme and a dense red glitter.
I used… Barry M Cotton and Sally Hansen Cha Ching!

How to
1. Start by painting two coats of your base colour
2. Use a quick dry top coat and wait until it’s completely dry
3. Use strips of striping tape to mark off uniform stripes. Make sure the tape hangs over the edge of the nail.
4. Take a cosmetic sponge and apply your glitter nail polish generously to the surface. Dab this down on to the nail for maximum glitter transference! You can see the method in action on my YouTube channel
5. Immediately peel away the striping tape to reveal the white underneath
6. Top with your favourite top coat. The thicker the better to smooth it all over and get that perfect glossy surface

French Snowfall Dotticure

Christmas Nail Art Snowfall

All you need is…

A blue creme and a white creme
I used… Morgan Taylor Flirt in a Skating Skirt and Barry M White

How to
1. Paint on your base colour and wait for it to dry
2. Using a dotting tool, pick up the white polish and start dotting!
3. Start with a spread out selection of dots all over the nail, then focus in and fill it out towards the tip of your nail to create the falling snow effect.
4. Top it all with your top coat
TIP: Keep your dotting tool clean by regularly dipping it in to acetone and wiping away the mess on a cotton wool pad or lint free nail pad.

Fancy Festive Glitter Gradient

Glitter Gradient Christmas Nail Art

All you need is…

A soft creme for your base and a festive glitter
I used… Barry M Pink Lemonade and Cirque Helios

How to
1. Lay down your base coat and let it dry (you know the drill by now!)
2. Protect the skin around your nails using a ‘Mani Mask‘ type product or make your own. Things are gonna get messy!
3. Paint a little gold glitter onto the edge of a makeup sponge and lightly dab near your cuticles. Repeat this a few times and move upwards, always dabbing gently, to create the gradient effect.
4. Finish with your top coat and voila!